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2) Physical properties of the gem material:
there are many properties of gem materials that help determine
which specific design is most appropriate. While a complete
explanation of this aspect of design selection is beyond the
scope of this tutorial, some general points can be made. The
single most important physical property of any gem to be cut
is its refractive index, which basically determines whether
light will be reflected within the gemstone or transmitted
through it for a given set of facet angles. If this property
isn't carefully taken into account, a design might be chosen
that allows light to escape through the pavilion of the stone
rather than being reflected back through the crown. When pavilion
angles are too shallow for the gem material in question, light
passes right through the bottom, and the resulting effect
is called "windowing." The images
below, generated using a specialized computer program for
simulating gemstone behavior, illustrate this concept. Compared
are two different materials (diamond and quartz) cut in the
exact same way.
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See how a ray of light behaves in
a brilliant-cut diamond? Notice that most of the light
returns through the crown. |
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A photo-realistic simulation of the
diamond shown above. The stone shows good brilliance. |
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See how a ray of light behaves in
a piece of quartz cut in the exact same way? Notice how
much light is leaving via the pavilion. |
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Here is a photo-realistic simulation
of the quartz. Notice the large window in the center. |
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